There are events that happen every day, but there are others we experience only a few times in a lifetime. This time, it is about a solar eclipse. A magical alignment of celestial bodies in the vastness of space. It is difficult to imagine the size of these celestial bodies, because the Sun is enormous and a human being on it would be nothing more than a tiny dot. Yet, when you are as far away as we are here on Earth, even the Sun seems small.
One day until the total solar eclipse – the moment when the Moon moves in front of the Sun. The moment will not last long, only a few minutes, but hopefully those few minutes will make the whole adventure worthwhile and be something worth experiencing in person.
The flight is to Spain, a place where the eclipse will be visible practically 100 percent. You cannot see a view like this from Latvia. Maybe sometime in the future, but this time – Spain.
In summer, it is difficult to call other countries “warm countries”, because Latvia itself can be quite warm. Still, it would not be an exaggeration, because our destination is expected to be at least 15 degrees warmer. A steady 30 degrees and above.
Five guys are travelling for the eclipse. Sounds like the beginning of a party after which you wake up remembering nothing, but not this time.
The first flight is to Madrid. Almost four hours on the plane. Not short. But not the longest flight I have taken either. A calm and unhurried morning in Riga, because the flight is in the afternoon. A small delay and we are in the air.
The main purpose of the trip is already clear from the first few sentences, but the solar eclipse is the very next day after we arrive, while we have an entire week ahead of us. I have not looked into sightseeing places this time, and the others have only done so superficially. So the activity plan will be more or less spontaneous. Based on recommendations and descriptions available online.
Madrid is not our final destination. After the long flight, an almost equally long drive in a rental car awaits us towards northern Spain — León. The whole day on the road. Unhurried, but tiring.
Expectations turn into reality. A 3.5 hour flight. A few formalities at the car rental office. I am the second driver, which we decided with a game of rock, paper, scissors. Yes, long drives are not particularly interesting, but in principle I enjoy driving. I am not driving first either, so everything is great.
The drive to our accommodation takes another 3.5 hours. Slightly less comfortable than the plane because the car is not large – a VW Taigo. We stop at a shop on the way because we realise we will not make it in time to eat at any local restaurants or shop later. A few beers and snacks for the evening. Pasta and a few extras as a backup option. Quick shopping. Destination reached. León. It is difficult to judge what the city has to offer because, until now, I have looked up precisely nothing about it. There will still be time to explore it.
As for accommodation, one of my friends, Nikolas, uses a home exchange app. You allow someone to stay in your apartment and, on the other side of the exchange, someone allows you to stay in another apartment in another country. This probably deserves an entire paragraph explaining what it is and how it works, but for now the fact itself will be enough. So, we get the keys and head to the apartment. Imagine our surprise when we arrive at an apartment with five bedrooms. Everyone has a double bed and their own room. A huge apartment. And there is not even much point discussing the price. Peanuts, including a small fee, cleaning after we leave and a few taxes.
Since we arrive close to midnight, we do not cook. A little sitting around and snacking before heading to bed and starting the day that is the main part of the trip. The solar eclipse. This is a good place to put a full stop and close our eyes for a moment, ready to start the next day tomorrow.
The morning is a little sleepy, but a shower gets things started. Minimal snacks in the apartment because the plan is to have breakfast outside, although probably closer to lunchtime. Morning coffee, yoghurt and off we go! We do not go far, just look around to see what is nearby. Small cafés are on every corner. We choose one and take whatever is on offer. A rather sad breakfast. I have a slice of toasted bread with butter and a little jam. The absolute minimum.
Before returning to the apartment, we go to a local supermarket and properly stock up for several meals, as well as buying things to take with us to the mountain when we watch the solar eclipse. A lot to carry, but fortunately we live nearby.
Three hours until departure. Nikolas and Aleksandrs stay at the apartment. The rest of us take a walk through the streets of León, mainly past the sightseeing spots. A beautiful cathedral and a few other notable places. Construction work is taking place around the cathedral, so you cannot get close to it from every side, but the overall view is good. You do not need much time to walk around everything at a relaxed pace; about 90 minutes was enough for us. We also note some places we should return to for food, including breakfast, so we do not have to eat sad toast again.
Back at the apartment, we research possible locations. More specifically, mountains suitable for watching the solar eclipse that are also relatively easy to reach. The place is chosen – Pico Pardal. Food break, because we have not really eaten properly today. The time to leave for an epic event that none of us has ever seen in person is approaching. A total solar eclipse.
It takes about an hour to drive to our chosen location, followed by a few kilometres along a hiking trail to the summit. The drive is quick and there are not many people around, because most have chosen locations with much easier access. We leave the car in a small mountain village, Fuentes de Peñacorada, and start heading upwards. It is hot. It is not easy. The beginning seems easy and relatively flat, without any major climbs.
On the way we meet a few Spaniards who are already heading back. We ask why they did not stay. They say the trail farther ahead is too wild and they do not want to come back along it at night. It would be dangerous. That does not stop us. They wish us luck and tell us to enjoy the view. Jokingly, I reply that we will send them pictures of the eclipse.
For about 100 metres, the trail ahead is not particularly well “walked in”. Thorny bushes leaning across the path create a few small difficulties, but in our opinion it is nothing serious.
Looking at the map on the phone, we need to go slightly to the left, which in reality means going off-road and leaving the trail because apparently the trail shown on the map is somewhere else. So that is exactly what we do, pushing through the bushes towards the mountain as it gets steeper and steeper. This is the most difficult part of the entire hike. Beyond the bushes we can see the summit where, theoretically, we want to end up. 100 metres forward and 100 metres up. It does not sound like much, but it is an extremely steep and difficult climb. We follow pseudo-trails made by cows and eventually reach the foot of the rocky mountain. The final metres. We never actually find the trail marked on the map. We are at the top! It is worth mentioning that the elevation difference between where we started walking and the summit is approximately 400 metres.
The view from the top is excellent. There is a pleasant breeze and the solar eclipse is getting closer. In the distance we can see another observer, while on other mountain peaks we can tell that there are people there as well because flashes of reflected sunlight appear from time to time. We have rested and are ready to experience an unforgettable sight.
The moment approaches. The Moon slowly covers the Sun. You can see it clearly through the special glasses that protect your eyes. A yellow circle being covered by a black circle. Without the glasses, the Sun remains so bright right up until totality that you cannot really see how much of it the Moon has covered. As the eclipse approaches, the light around us begins to change. It reminds me of the light we sometimes see in summer when the sky suddenly darkens before heavy rain, but the rain has not yet started. That kind of light spreads across the entire mountainous landscape. The sky is clear, without clouds, with only some haze near the horizon that does not interfere with the view.
The moment arrives quickly. Totality lasts only around 90 seconds, but the view and the feeling are impossible to describe in words. The Sun is completely covered by the Moon. Now we can look at it without the glasses. The sight is genuinely epic. Dark, yet light. And the view in the sky is fantastic. Something worth experiencing at least once in a lifetime. You just need to know which part of the world to be in. All of us are amazed by what we have seen.
By the way, the next total solar eclipse will be in Málaga next year. In 2027.
After the eclipse, we slowly start getting ready to head back. The most important event of the day has happened. I would say the most important event of the year. We descend on the other side of the mountain and, as it turns out, the trail is exactly the same one we had left earlier because we thought we were heading towards the “correct” trail. The trail is easy, with no real obstacles apart from the thorny bushes. The Spanish group will never know what they missed.
It is still light outside, but twilight is approaching quickly because the solar eclipse took place close to sunset. We are in no hurry to reach the car because we want to wait for complete darkness. There might be a meteor shower visible in the sky. Darkness arrives, but the shooting stars do not give us much of a show. Only a few.
In complete darkness, using our torches, we head towards the car and then back to the apartment to sleep. Car. One-hour drive. Shower. Time to rest.
The heat is slowly beginning to ease. Today will be two degrees cooler. The city thermometer shows 34.
The morning starts fairly late, but we want to eat outside the apartment. Around noon is not really the right time for that. Too late for breakfast and too early for lunch. We eat at the café inside a local supermarket. Nikolas goes home to cook pasta, while the rest of us stock up on drinks and snacks at the shop. After a substantial breakfast, which by the clock is already lunch, we can head out on a short trip to some nearby places.
Today I am driving. We will not have to go far. We buy ice cream along the way. A little more driving and we reach our first destination, a place where we can swim – Puente del Cantarín. We cannot drive right next to it, so we have to sweat a little in the heat before reaching the refreshing water, which actually feels fairly warm. Once we get to the swimming spot, we realise that we could have driven all the way down to the water after all.
After swimming, we head up towards Segundo Túnel del Ponfeblino. We follow an abandoned railway line that runs through the rock. An underground passage roughly one kilometre long, where without torches it would be difficult to see where you are going. Walk there, walk back, and by the time we return to the swimming area, shade is beginning to appear. Time to head to a nearby town, Bembibre, for dinner.
Our plans for the day had been bigger, but time has flown by very quickly. After the underground tunnel, we have another refreshing swim and then drive off in search of food.
The town seems to have plenty of outdoor cafés, but they are all basically bars serving drinks and snacks. When we ask locals where we can actually eat, everyone points us towards the same place, where it is possible to get something more substantial than nuts.
We order dinner. We are warned that the portions will be large, so we order portions to share between two people. And yes, the portions really are enormous. Hunger satisfied. We can head home and try to go to bed earlier, but of course that does not happen. A long, hot and fast-moving day.
Every day the temperature outside is slowly dropping. Today it is another few degrees cooler. In the morning we go out for breakfast, but split into two groups. Some head somewhere sweeter, others somewhere more savoury. We start this day earlier than the others so we can actually make it in time for breakfast. For us, that means before ten. Everything goes according to plan – a tasty breakfast outside. I should mention that I ordered coffee with breakfast but received cocoa instead. Not what I expected, but at least the food was correct and delicious.
Today’s plan is to reach the ocean. It is about a two-hour drive, and we also want to visit a few sights along the way. The day, like all the others, stretches out. We only reach the coastal city of Gijón in the afternoon. A few snacks and a proper walk along the beach. Unlike the previous days, you can really feel the presence of tourists here. We do not explore the city much and instead continue towards a few more sights and a beach where we can actually reach the water and swim.
After the swim, it is time for dinner. We decide to eat in one of the villages on the way home – Ultreya in Olloniego. More authentic and cheaper as well. The plan works, and we get an excellent dinner. Very tasty.
There is one final task for the evening. Get home. It sounds simple enough, but the road is long and it is raining a little.
Speaking of the weather, León has been sunny and hot, while as we approach the ocean the weather gradually becomes rainier and more overcast. The biggest change happens in the mountains. León is on one side and our destinations are on the other. The first half of the day is spent in hot sunshine, while the afternoon brings comfortable temperatures without direct sun. It only starts raining harder as we drive home, but when we return to León, the weather is back to where it was in the morning. Except now it is dark and there are stars. We will see what the new day brings – the forecast is promising rain even here in León.
A rest day has arrived. At least it starts without any plans to do anything. There is one plan, though. Breakfast outside. We all head together to a local café to recharge. Different things for different people – sweets for some, savoury food for others – but everyone gets what they want.
After breakfast, which for us regularly happens around eleven, we start thinking about the next meal. Nikolas heads home to start cooking, while the rest of us go via the shop to buy extra things not only for today but also for tomorrow, because shops are closed on Sundays.
Our daily routine is unhurried. When we return home, the next meal can already be sensed in the air. Sauce is cooking and pasta is nearby. Soon it will be time to eat again. Nikolas has done an excellent job. Everything disappears quickly, right down to the final piece of pasta.
The day is still long, so we do not want to spend the entire remaining part of it in “doing nothing” mode. We look for nearby sights that we could visit at a relaxed pace without taking too much time.
Compared with other trips, artificial intelligence tools are helping a lot this time. They do not just suggest places but actually plan routes and clarify details. Planning is very fast and the results are very good. This day is no exception. For example, starting with the question “What’s within an hour’s drive?” and adding a few follow-up questions, we end up with a very good plan for the day that matches what we want.
Four of us go on the short day trip. Aleksandrs stays at the apartment to take a little break from the heat, which keeps reminding us of its presence everywhere outside.
The first sight is a historic bridge, Puente del Paso Honroso, which, by the way, is also part of the Camino de Santiago. We see many walkers carrying backpacks. A quick loop around the bridge and we continue to the next city, Astorga, where an impressive cathedral with a highly detailed walls and the Gaudí designed Episcopal Palace await us. There are not many interesting sights elsewhere in the city; it feels like a regular residential area with houses typical of the region. The main tourist attraction in the centre is the cathedral already mentioned. We do not go inside, as there are museums here as well, but it is definitely worth taking a short walk around if you happen to be passing through.
The final stop on our short trip is the small village of Castrillo de los Polvazares, where all the buildings are constructed in the same style. A reddish village with one central street. If you arrive in the evening, you can also eat here because there are several restaurants, but in the middle of the day, as everywhere else, they are either closed or their kitchens remain closed until the evening.
The little trip is over and it is time to return. We can call it a small trip because it took us only four to five hours.
The final plan for the day is to go out into the streets of León in the evening, because we have not done that yet. Time to see what the nightlife is like. We already know where to go because our scouting walks over the previous days have given us an idea of what the city has to offer. We head out for a night-time walk to try some local wine and enjoy the atmosphere. I should add that we leave quite late, around eleven. I would recommend doing it earlier, around nine, because some bars and cafés are already closing around midnight. There is nightlife here as well, including nightclubs, so bigger partygoers will have something to do through the night. Our plan is more about simply being outside. Walking and drinks. Home and conversations before sleep. This is the latest night of the trip for us.
It is not difficult to guess that Sunday brings our latest morning. Not everyone goes out for breakfast. There is a little tiredness, but that will not last all day, because during our late-night conversations we have already decided where we might go and what we could see today.
Our route takes us to the Roman gold mines of Las Médulas. Using the toll roads, the journey takes around 90 minutes. The toll costs €6.20. It is worth it because the road is more comfortable and faster. The free route would take about 20 minutes longer and involve more winding roads.
The traces left by the mines are impressive. Our first view of them is from a mountain viewpoint specifically built for this purpose. It is worth mentioning that a wildfire swept through the area a year ago and the surroundings are partly burnt, but over the year the most important tourist areas have been restored. At the top of the mountain, there is also a tour through the mining tunnels, but unfortunately we arrive exactly during the break. It is better to come in the morning or later in the afternoon. Spanish style — mountain siesta.
There is a walking trail around the mines leading down towards the village. There are both longer and shorter options. It all depends on what you want. We only want to see the mines from above. There is paid parking here as well. After looking around, we head towards a nearby restaurant for food. That is hardly surprising, because we eat a lot.
The nearest mountain restaurant sends us towards restaurants in the closest village. The first one accepts customers only with prior reservations. At the next one, everything works out — Restaurant Mesón El Lago. The daily menu costs €22. One list of choices for the first course, another for the second. Dessert and coffee at the end. Everyone leaves well fed. If we avoid the popular tourist spots, prices are very good and the portions are impressive.
A lake is a few hundred metres away. There is no question that after such a filling meal, spending some lazy time beside the lake is a good idea. We manage that very well.
There are still a few final plans for the day. The mining village, where we walk along the central street and look at the mines from below. After that, we can start heading home via Ponferrada.
There is one castle in the city worth seeing, and it can also be visited inside, but today we are not exactly friends with time management.
The estimated time needed to visit the castle is more than an hour, but we arrive only 30 minutes before closing, so we cannot go inside. No great tragedy. We walk around it and head home. Before leaving, we do a little shopping to buy something refreshing. It is not true that every shop is closed today.
The drive home is relatively quick. We arrive at the apartment with the last daylight, something we have not managed until now. To finish the day, one final task remains. Pasta is being prepared, and the week can come to an end before Monday begins with plans for a proper hike.
Almost the final morning. Our plan is to go out for breakfast, but while I am still lying in bed, the thought appears that maybe I could skip it. I like sleeping.
I get up anyway, and all of us meet at the breakfast place to eat before heading out for our first proper hike. The previous ones were nothing by comparison. We drive for more than an hour and arrive at a small village, Horcadas, where we leave the car and head towards the mountains.
The plan is an easy walk, although under the hot sun even an easy walk will not really be easy. We walk and turn, turn and walk. Ups and downs. After several smaller peaks, we face a choice. Climb the big mountain, Pico Gilbo, which will not be easy because it is quite steep and there is a serious ascent over a short distance.
This challenge will not be for everyone. Some stay behind and wait. Mikus and I continue upwards. Along the way we overtake a few hikers, although they have a child with them. It definitely cannot be easy for him. Older people are also coming down towards us, so the route is manageable for everyone, although at least some basic fitness is necessary.
After an intense climb, we reach the top. The view is excellent. We meet an experienced hiker who is 68 years old. He says the view here is better in winter, when there is no haze above the mountain peaks. He goes on hikes like this every week. He says he needs the adrenaline.
A short break and it is already time to climb back down because the others are waiting for us. I take a slightly different route down from the one I used going up. I would say a much more dangerous one, because I would not go that way a second time. Fortunately, it is only a short section. Soon we are back down with the others. Now all of us can head towards the village and drive to the nearest swimming spot.
After the swim, we head home. The day has disappeared almost without us noticing. We stop for ice cream along the way. Now we are cooled down from the inside as well.
One final dinner. Pasta, Italian style. Final conversations about how we will start the next day, when we will pack our things and what time we will drive to Madrid to fly home. The rough plans are ready. All that remains is to get some sleep before spending the next day travelling.
A calm morning, a good sleep, breakfast made from whatever is left in the fridge, packing our things, and we are ready to begin the journey back to Latvia. The sunshine and hot weather will be replaced by more moderate temperatures.
As we enter Madrid, the temperature “delights” us. It is 38 degrees outside the car window. Fortunately, that does not last long, because the temperature inside the airport is pleasant.
The final hours in the air above Europe, and we are home.
It was hot, it was good, it was unforgettable.